One, basin 1. Selection of basins: In general, ceramic pots or plastic basins are used. Porous basins are preferred. For easy ventilation, shallow basins are preferred. The basin height is preferably smaller than the basin diameter. 2. Culture medium selection: Phalaenopsis is a typical epiphytic orchid, its roots are well developed, and the cultivation matrix must be characterized by looseness, ventilation, good air permeability, and rot resistance. According to the author's cultivation experience, the northern butterfly orchids should be selected in situ. Leaves, peanut shells, bark, etc. are used as substrates. The basin must be changed every year. If the basin is not changed in time, the potted matrix rots to cause contraction and poor air permeability. Lan Lan’s growth has been severely declining and even dying. 3. Change the basin time and method: The best time for the Phalaenopsis to change basins is late spring and early summer. The best temperature is above 20°C. Just after the flowering period, the new roots begin to grow. When changing the basin, first cut the stems, gently remove the original nutrient cartridge, dig out the old substrate with your fingers, and cut the dried old roots, rusted roots, and cut roots, and use the broken tiles on the pelvic floor. Get up. Use sterilized wet pine needles to put a layer on the pelvic floor first, and then evenly spread the roots of the phalaenopsis into the basin. Then continue to place the pine needles on the root system of the orchid plant and gently compact it to make the orchid plant stable. . When planting, pay attention to the rhizomes of the blue plants to be consistent with the height of the pots, and then spray water to place the indoor ventilated areas. During this period, it is not appropriate to apply fertilizer. Only water spray and proper watering are required in the management. After one month, it can be long. Leaves buds, and then normal management. Second, the temperature Phalaenopsis is mainly distributed in the tropical low-lying coastal areas. The optimum growing temperature is 25°C to 28°C during the day and 18°C ​​to 20°C during the night. Phalaenopsis is very sensitive to low temperature, and when it is at 15°C for a long time, it will stop growing. When the temperature is below 15°C, the root will stop absorbing water and the leaves will appear necrotic and dark spots. The leaves that are too long will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Each year before the winter and early spring (early and late heating period), the climate in the north is variable, and the indoor temperature does not reach 15°C. This is the most difficult period of conservation in a year. The blue plants should be placed in indoor sunny locations. Watering, if necessary, sprinkle water on the ground. In the evening, incubate the blue plant bag. Three, watering Phalaenopsis is wet, but avoid water. Water shortage during the growing season, such as long-term lack of water will make the leaves yellow, can not be remedied. Phalaenopsis cultivated with pine needles will not accumulate water. When watering, it will be sprayed with a watering can and water will flow out of the basin and bottom. Frequently sprinkle water around the orchid basin to keep the air moist, but be careful not to make the heart of the blue leaves water, especially during the night in winter when it is forbidden to spray water on the leaves. Fourth, fertilization Phalaenopsis is due to its fast growth and long growth period. In May, orchids have just been changed and no fertilizer is being applied in the recovery period. The period from June to September is the growth period of orchids. It should be applied once a week so that foliar fertilizer and potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be used alternately. Farmhouse fertilizer and water can also be used. Fermented with fertilizer and water after fermentation, conditions can buy special fertilizer for orchids and “Huabao†liquid fertilizer diluted 2000 times to spray on the foliar and cultivation substrate, stop fertilizing at high temperatures in summer. In late autumn, the growth of orchids is getting slower, and fertilization should be reduced. Excessive fertilization will often cause the orchid plant to be too vigorous and affect flower bud formation, resulting in failure to flower. V. Ventilation and shading Phalaenopsis hi ventilation, avoid hot, poor ventilation can easily cause rot, poor growth. In winter, the temperature is low, and it can be ventilated in the sunny days at noon. The air outlet should not be blown directly to the orchid plant. Phalaenopsis is attached to the shade of the jungle under natural conditions, forming a happy and half-negative habit. When the family grows, there will be less shading in winter, more shading in spring and autumn, strong sunlight in summer, and high temperatures. Special attention should be paid to shade and ventilation. VI. Flowering Management Due to the limitation of temperature and humidity, the family of Phalaenopsis can only grow 2 to 3 leaves a year. The leaves are only born at the top. The flower buds grow in the middle of the two leaves. After the flower buds are formed, the temperature is 18°C ​​to 20°C. Up to 4 months of maintenance can blossom. When the flower stem is drawn out, a temporary support is set in the flower pot to prevent the stem from lodging. The stem fixing is performed several times in order to avoid breakage of the stem. When the first bud grows, the orientation of the flowerpot cannot be turned, otherwise it will cause the direction of the flowers on the orchid to be inconsistent. In the flowering period, the temperature should be controlled between 15°C and 18°C, and the ventilation and humidity should be strengthened. The flowering period can be as long as 4 months. VII. Pest Control 1. Leaf spot disease: Occurred mainly on the leaves. Small spots appeared on the leaves at the early stage of disease. Afterwards, they developed into a nearly round lesion. There were water-stained yellow circles on the edges of the lesions. The boundaries were obvious. Control methods: Strengthen ventilation, reduce air humidity, cut off diseased leaves. In the onset period, 75% of chlorothalonil WP was sprayed at 800 times, sprayed every 10 days, and sprayed 3 times. 2. Botrytis cinerea: Occurs in the spring when the temperature is low and high humidity, usually appear on the white flower petal brown small spots, severe soft rot occurs. Control methods: Strengthen ventilation, reduce humidity, and immediately cut off the diseased flowers. In the early stage of onset, spray 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 1000 times, spray once every 10 days, and spray twice. 3. Brown spot: Occurs in hot and humid weather in summer and autumn. It mainly occurs on the leaves. In the early stages of the disease, small round spots appear on the leaves. Afterwards, they gradually enlarge into large spots. The spots are dark brown, and the leaves become dark and withered when severe. Control methods: pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. At the beginning of the disease, 10% of Polaroid (polyoxin) 80 times was sprayed once every half month. 4. Scale insects: The most common insect pests of Phalaenopsis occur in autumn and winter, with poor indoor ventilation and dryness leading to harm by scale insects. Control methods: pay attention to ventilation, orchid planting should not be too close, found a small amount of scrubbing with a soft cloth to scrub scale insects repeated several times to eradicate pests. 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